05 July 2007

The Haves & The Have Lots

10 weeks in Doha has taught me plenty about what a well-oiled class system looks and feels like. As I’ve explained in previous posts, there are 3 distinct classes in Qatar:

1. Arabs – from local Qataris to Gulf Residents to Lebanese and Egyptians
2. Expats – from US, Europe, Australia
3. Laborers – from Philippines, Pakistan, Sri Lanka

You expect that one class will drive nicer cars, live in bigger homes, and eat at more expensive restaurants… as you can find in most western cities. But there’s another level here, a level that isn’t obvious to the casual tourist, a level driven by economic growing pains. Qatar’s nomadic tribes relied on fishing and carpet making until oil was discovered along the western shores, followed later by the largest non-associated natural gas field in the world. The resulting shift in the standard of living has left a noticeable impact on the population, as a winning lottery ticket can alter more than one’s bank account.

Simply put, Qatar combines the elements of an upscale department store and a late 90’s rap music video… cappuccino stained Lamborghinis, diamond encrusted watches, designer sunglasses, and the ever-present air of entitlement.

In an environment saturated with money, it’s difficult to distinguish yourself. Most men in Houston wouldn’t opt for the Hot Pink BMW 735i or the Lime Green Range Rover Sport, but you have to go big or go home in Doha… down to the license plates and mobile phone numbers.


When I called the dealer to arrange pick-up of our Accord last week, the salesman said he had some “great news” – apparently we had been given a 5 digit license plate… an honor of sorts. As I mentioned Qatar came from humble beginnings, not a whole lot to see or do, so until the big oil and gas boom things were handled rather archaically for the few folks who called Doha home. When license plates were handed out they apparently started with number 1. Some 50 years later they are handing out 6 digit numbers, but every now and then you’ll find a plate with fewer digits, like ours! So of course we started looking closely at cars on the road and have found some vehicles with 4 number or the very rare 3 number plates. We’ve also noticed that the 3 digit plate usually accompanies a car with a 6 digit price tag – more to come on that later.

Similarly, when we bought our local phone SIM cards the retail clerk told me that I got a “very good number” (538-0770), and at least 5 other locals have since commented on my “very good number”. So I started paying closer attention to mobile numbers around town, and sure enough, the most important people have extremely repetitive phone numbers (458-7888, 439-4444, 509-9998) – like businesses back home. A good phone number, like a short license plate, is a valuable commodity, and you need look no further than the online message board at work to see why the wealthy tend to have the best phone numbers and license plates. Today you could make one phone call and a trip to the ATM and have your own “very good number”. For roughly $7000 you could have 656-4465, or if that’s too expensive you could pick up 564-3433 for $3500, which got me thinking how much 538-0770 would be worth. I’ve found that what makes a number special is the ability to creatively read it to others… I now make a point to say that my number is Five-Three-Eight-Zero-Double Seven-Zero… it truly is the little things in life.

If phone numbers aren’t your thing, you can focus on license plates, but I have to warn you they are considerably more expensive. Just yesterday 2 plates were posted, 968 was going for $48,000 or you could buy plate number 1811 for $44,000… take your pick. Each plate comes complete with its own artificial sense of entitlement.

6 comments:

Cameron Lawrence said...

I want to say how absurd it all is. But I'm afraid that, if I do, I'll be speaking with a cultural plank in my eye. Fascinating post, B. Keep 'em coming!

Brent said...

Double Seven

Since rap culture seems to be so big there, you need to come up with your own rap names.

Too Tall &
Lil She

Ahhh.... its good to be first again. Sorry my responses have been so short, I have a trial next week and have had little to no time to bill to to the Double Seven a/k/a Too Tall file.

Brent said...

Darn

preempted by Mr. Lawrence

Brandon and Sheri said...

Agree Cam... I attempted to tread softly as nearly all of my experiences in Doha are simply exaggerations of the same behavior most Americans exhibit back home.

But my do they know how to put on a show.

The Maddox Family said...

actually we do very similar things with our plates over here...they give few didgits to those who are more esteemed BUT you have to earn one and by the time you earn one you probably don´t care. ie. a new neighbor that lives by lauren´s grandparents has the number 8 (or 18). It also states that he´s won the congretional medal of honor. Purple heart winners also receive a low digit plate etc. I´m sure you could pick one up on ebay for a lot less though.

I have thought of a new buisiness venture though...it involves ebay, a flat head screwdriver, doha, and "low digit" plates. let me know if you want in on the ground floor, there is little overhead.

Bullwinkel said...

Interesting ways to blow money. Cell phone numbers and car tags. However, I would have payed someone a good chunk of money if I didn't have to go through the mess I did to get my car's tag here in Texas. It was so much easier back in Mississippi. Still waiting on the GH post...I know it is a big part of your lifestyle there.